Konya, into the a-whirl of its own

I t ‘s the center away from Turkey. Konya, a neighborhood out of so many souls, squatting slap in Anatolia’s nuts ordinary, enclosed by open, endless prairie. Turkey’s very culturally old-fashioned area, Konya appears to start with as a place from tight headscarves and you can foreboding beards, of ostentatiously noticed pieties and you may taboo drinks. However, uncovering Konya is simple – to own right here, at the heart of one’s old urban area, within his tomb out of turquoise tiles, are Jelaluddin Rumi.

Rumi is just one of the earth’s really discover poets. Throughout his lives, and because his demise into the 1273, pilgrims came so you’re able to Konya. Now, Rumi’s tomb is actually Turkey’s second extremely-decided to go to traffic appeal pursuing the Topkapi Castle when you look at the Istanbul. Rumi are a mystic, good Sufi saint just who appreciated most of the religions, and whose individual faith was like. His followers manage (whilst still being do) eradicate on their own in the hypnotic trance and you will dancing, either spinning eg passes all day long.

There can be a massive, epic brand new civil auditorium in which which sensitive spinning human dancing is did, and you may one number of pleasant shiny-eyed mystics within the carpet stores, cafes and you will gothic bazaars, every happier to help you receive you to definitely an exclusive zikhr

These types of spinning dervishes are actually the new symbol away from Turkey’s tourist tips, and sip beverage on your Istanbul resorts lobby enjoying particular worst bloke into the a large beige thought cap spinning having their enjoyment. For the real thing, whether or not, been heree so you can Konya while arrived at Turkey’s heart. In Rumi’s conditions:

“Anybody who you may be, been Even though you may be A keen infidel, a beneficial pagan, or an excellent fireworshipper, started Our brotherhood isn’t one of despair However features damaged Your own vows regarding repentance one hundred times, become.”

Just about every season due to the fact 1983, I have been coming with the one or two million-or-thus people whom check out Konya a year. Some are Turkish, some Iranians (who claim Rumi as his or her individual, once the he wrote inside their language and grew up in eastern Persia) including make the pilgrimage.

As opposed to and work out Konya a halt on the a bus concert tour, I would recommend existence asiacharm legit for some months, bathing in an impact, dining the Turkey’s ideal mutton, viewing its best Seljuk frameworks and you may – perhaps – falling crazy about Rumi. You can fly within the inexpensively of Istanbul, that there’s also a good scruffy, atmospheric teach, or are available by-road. Konya is actually simple come to of your own cavern dwellers and you will carpeting manufacturers of Cappadocia.

Rumi turned up here while the an effective boy, when Konya got started a community for 2,000 ages. It had been centered by the Hittites, who had been succeeded by Phrygians, then your Lydians, Persians, Cappadocians, the fresh leaders off Pergamon and also the Romans, whom known as set Iconium. Saints Paul and Barnabus both preached here, however, by the 1071 the newest Seljuks, a great Turcoman tribe, was in fact responsible, as well as their architectural heritage suffers.

The Karatay Medrese out of 1251 try a masterpiece away from embellished tiling and you may good domes. It is today the brand new Museum out-of Ceramic tiles and you will Ceramics, whose articles keep up with the vibrancy and you will punch they had whenever earliest fired. Close by, the fresh new Ince Minarali Medrese has become brand new Museum out of Brick and you may Wood Carving, that is much less deceased than just We have made it sound. These two buildings whet your appetite to find the ornately tiled Sircali Medrese, while the stunning Sahip Ata mosque: unlike much of the fresh new Muslim globe, during the Poultry you’re motivated to visit mosques, any sort of your own religious needs.

During the junction of your own old urban area and its unappealing this new neighbor is the Alaaddin mosque, the city’s vantage point, whose gorgeous black pulpit and you will sensitive prayer-market are from 1155 (brand new advanced is finished in 1221). The boulevard radiating from this point brings one Rumi’s tomb, at which a whole lot more later. Rumi is known to Turks once the Mevlana (the newest Sainted One), and after this Konya is during thrall so you can Mevlanamania.

Whenever i very first came, Mevlana’s followers, brand new Mevlevi, was basically a blocked organisation, accepted just for the “folkloric dance” and whirlings. Group meetings occurred secretly, illegally.

I mentioned food, as well. Konya’s mutton-centric cooking is excellent. Etli ekmek was a long, slim move-upwards pizza pie spread with delicately spiced mince, and Konya kebab try a lamb shank, really reduced roasted and served to your a pillow regarding money having a nice yellow onion. Top is at Konak (Restoran, Akcesme mah. Piriesat Cad. No 5, +ninety 332 352 85 47), whoever soups and you will homemade natural yogurt is paradise-made.

Thus, perfectly provided, in accordance with of numerous glasses of sweet tannic beverage inside you, help make your way to Rumi’s tomb. You join the awestruck, the fresh new interested together with fervent. A mysterious twinkly white performs on tombs of Rumi and you can his supporters. The fresh new wall space is padded which have calligraphy, in addition to ceilings are a good kaleidoscope regarding remarkably carried out arabesques. Rumi’s tomb is included inside the greatly stitched material regarding gold, and you can generally seems to glow light and you will peace and you will mercy.

All are moved, getting let me reveal like

A few of your other pilgrims usually read Korans, while others Rumi’s poetry. Really take photo, while this is strictly forbidden. You will find people who weep silently, and people who make fun of out loud; people who meditate all round the day, and those who rush compliment of.

To tackle privately and you will insinuating itself into your awareness ‘s the ney, a beneficial reed flute. It sounds eg breathy sky, but is really the voice out-of flame, and that rises and you may falls into the people. This is not specific sullen spiritual complaining, although sound regarding craving, off communion, of your own heart. You have got they – it’s soul songs, therefore very sends you. Very been.

Turkish Airlines (020-7471 6666) flies to help you Konya via Istanbul of Heathrow, Stansted, Birmingham and you may Manchester, from ?219 rtn inc fees. Istanbul to Konya by train will set you back throughout ?24 get back, or just around ?thirty-six return of the bus. Lodge Balikcilar provides rooms or about ?70 (while having suits cool beers). Lodge Dergah (+90 332 351 76 61) bed room as much as ?20. Seats observe the fresh whirling dervishes was free from the latest subscribers workplace, trailing Mevlana’s tomb. Mete Horzum at the SeleneTour (+ninety 532 564 9192, ) arranges private spinning and you can zikhr regarding ?30pp.